How Trees Survive and Thrive After A Fire

Written by Victoria González and published on https://www.megainteresting.com/.

Big or small, gradual or sudden, change rhythmically punctuates human life. In the natural world, change is just as intrinsic and pattern-based. Seasonal fluctuations in temperature, shifts in sun light, and natural disturbances, like fire, are all part of nature’s cycle.

How trees survive and thrive after forest fires

Uncontrolled forest fires can devastate anything in their path. Plants and trees cannot move or and run away when fire descends on their habitat, but due to the frequency of these natural and ever increasingly human influenced disasters, many species have adapted to survive.

Some plants and trees are classified as pyrophytes or ‘fire resistant’ species. Pyrophytes have developed an ability to tolerate fires, and can actually thrive in the aftermath of a blaze. 

Trees have various ways of tolerating and regrowing after fire. For some trees with extensive root systems, this can be especially beneficial as their roots can give them the capacity to ‘resprout’ after their above ground presence has been completely destroyed by fire. Resprouting trees include the strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo), the evergreen oak tree (Quercus ilex), Pistacia lentiscus or ‘Mastic’ tree and the kermes oak tree (Quercus coccifera).

Some plants in fire prone areas actually need fire, either directly or indirectly, to successfully germinate. Plants, such as Cistus produce seeds that remain buried in the ground and are capable of withstanding high temperatures. The aftermath of a fire provides an ideal opportunity for these buried seeds to germinate, as fires often create large areas of open space with plenty of light. Without competition from other plants and with new mineral resources that are generated from fire ashes, these plants are able to flourish.  

In environments where hot, fast moving fires are frequent, some species of pine tree have adapted and developed thick, hard cones that are literally glued shut with a strong resin. These “serotinous” cones can hang on a pine tree for many years, long after the seeds inside have matured. When faced with fire, the resin melts, which opens the cones, releasing seeds that are then then distributed by wind and gravity.

Despite nature’s resilience, it must not be forgotten that human behaviours are intensifying forest fire incidences. Forest fires increase carbon dioxide levels in the atmosphere, contributing to the greenhouse effect and climate change. Ashes destroy much of the nutrients and erode the soil, which can cause flooding and landslides. Unnaturally severe fires can destroy forests, even those that have adapted to fire and overall regeneration of vegetation is a challenging process. As a result human intervention such as actively supporting soil restoration methods are needed to continue to protect our world’s forests.

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Trees and Your Environment

Written by Mattea Jacobs and published on https://greenpop.org/.

Many people decide to enrich their gardens by planting trees. Most of them do it for the beauty or to provide extra shade in summer months. However, there are more benefits from trees than you might think. Except for relaxing, connecting us with nature and their calming effect, trees do a lot when it comes to the environment.

If you are thinking about planting a tree around your home, keep reading to find out what trees do for our environment

10 Environmental Benefits of Planting a Tree

Many people decide to enrich their gardens by planting trees. Most of them do it for the beauty or to provide extra shade in summer months. However, there are more benefits from trees than you might think. Except for relaxing, connecting us with nature and their calming effect, trees do a lot when it comes to the environment.

If you are thinking about planting a tree around your home, keep reading to find out what trees do for our environment

1. Reducing Climate Change

If people are good at something, then it is building up excess carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. Harmful CO2 contributes to climate change, the biggest current problem the world has to deal with. Trees, however, help fight it. They absorb CO2 removing it from the air and storing it while releasing oxygen. Annually, an acre of trees absorbs the amount of carbon dioxide equal to driving your car 26 000 miles. Trees are our main survival tools; only one tree can produce enough oxygen for four people.

2. Purifying Air

Have you ever felt that feeling of „cleaner air“ in the woods or by the seaside? Well, you were right because it is well known that trees do purify the air. They absorb pollutant gases such as nitrogen oxides, ozone, ammonia, sulfur dioxide. Trees also absorb odors and act as a filter as little particulates get trapped in leaves. A mature acre of trees can yearly provide oxygen for 18 people.

In the city, trees can help to cool down the streets.

3. Cooling Down the Streets

Every year we listen to the shocking global warming news. For instance, the average temperature in Los Angeles has risen by 6F in 50 years, and the average global temperature grew by 1.4 F. This happens as tree coverage declines. Removing trees and replacing them with heat absorbing asphalt roads and buildings makes cities much warmer. Trees are cooling cities by up to 10 F by providing shade and releasing water.

4. Natural Air Conditioning

Did you know that strategically placed trees around your home can significantly cut air conditioning needs? Not only will this make your wallet thicker, but it will also reduce carbon dioxide and emissions from power plants. Architects and environmentalists sat together and came up with the great solution – green roofs. Green roofs are an amazing way to incorporate vegetation to your home and provide environmental benefits for your community while saving money on cooling bills.

Indoor trees do not only have a calming effect, they also act as natural air conditioning.

5. Saving Water

Except for cooling, trees also help to save water. Because of the shade they provide, water will evaporate slowly from low vegetation. Trees need about 15 water gallons a week to survive, and they release about 200-450 gallons of water per day.

6. Preventing Water Pollution

Stormwater can be full of phosphorus pollutants and nitrogen. Without trees, stormwater flows into oceans and waters without being filtered. Trees break the rainfall and allow water to enter the earth and seep into the soil. Therefore, they prevent stormwater from polluting oceans. Except for trees, green infrastructure like green roof can help sooth effects of stormwater.

Trees can help to save water.

7. Providing Shelters for Wildlife

Trees also contribute to boosting biodiversity as they become a food source and natural habitat for wildlife. One apple tree produces about 20 fruit bushels per year which can nourish many birds, insects, and wildlife. It can be planted on a very small surface but has a fantastic environmental effect. Trees that are most planted as homes for birds, squirrels, and bees are oak and sycamore.

8. Renewable Energy Source

Nowadays, one of the biggest world problems is fossil fuels. Except for their toxic properties, they will also not be around forever. So many companies are focusing on renewable sources of energy. If harvested and treated sustainably, trees can become a great renewable source of energy. They are simple to use, have been around since the beginning of time, and with smart forest management they can become an excellent eco-friendly fuel.

An apple tree can provide shelter for insects.

9. Reinforcing Soil

Trees are one of the best partners when it comes to agriculture. They act positively in several ways: they reduce soil erosion, increase fertility and help soil obtain moisture. Fallen tree leaves lower reduce soil temperature and prevent soil from losing too much moisture. Decaying leaves that fall onto the ground turn into nutrients for tree growth and promote microorganism development.

10. Erosion Control

Rain and wind are two primary erosion forces that damage the bare soil. As they fall from heights, drops of rain gain power and momentum which is strong enough to penetrate soil once they hit the ground. On the other hand, if the land is dried out, then wind can do significant damage. Trees break droplets of rain and weaken their strength while roots hold the soil together and protect it from effects of wind.

Plant a tree, and you and your community will thrive from the benefits.

Final Thoughts

There are many environmental benefits of planting a tree. Strategically planting trees around your home can have tremendous benefits on the environment. Not only will you help restore life quality in your community, contribute to the environment and help fight climate change, but you will also set an example. Therefore, planting a beautiful tree is always a good idea!

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What is a Hazard Tree?

Written by Christian Plunkett and published on https://www.experts.com/.

Hazard trees, borderline trees, tree limit, line clearance, assessment of hazards… Trees are not only good – they can actually present serious risks for people and property! Regular, preventive risk assessment and utility vegetation maintenance is necessary to reduce the safety risks involved. Falling trees are one of the most common causes of electrical breakdowns, and especially so when the weather makes it tough to handle service interruptions. Hard wind and heavy rains, ice, and snow are all typical reasons to why trees fall over.

What is the Definition of a Hazard Tree?

As defined in the tree care industry, a “Hazard Tree” is a tree that poses a level of risk to people or property that exceeds the risk tolerance of the property owner or manger. This means that a tree that may be considered a hazard to one property owner may not be considered to be a hazard by another property owner. Thus, “hazard tree” is a somewhat subjective concept, used when making tree risk management decisions on a particular property, and is not a description of the inherent level of risk actually posed by a particular tree. In the tree care industry the term “hazard tree” is generally reserved to describe a tree that requires immediate removal, or other mitigating actions, to reduce the level of risk posed.

When a property owner asks a consulting arborist if a particular tree is a hazard, what he or she is often really asking, in tree care industry terms, is “is this a high risk tree”. The risk posed by a tree is dependent on the likelihood of a tree failure occurring, combined with the severity of the potential consequences of such a failure. Tree risk is a much less subjective concept and the level of risk posed by a tree can be defined in relatively concrete terms by having a “tree risk assessment” performed by a qualified arborist. Today a “qualified arborist” usually means an arborist who has attended specialized training, and passed an examination, to become “tree risk assessment qualified” through the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA).

In order for a tree to be considered as posing a risk it must meet two criteria. The tree, or a tree part, must be at an increased likelihood of failure, usually due to the presence of some structural defect e.g. the presence of a significant amount of decay in a portion of the tree, and there must be one or more targets present. A target may be any person or property that could potentially be damaged or injured should a failure occur. If there are no targets present there is no risk and the tree will not be considered a hazard, even if it is structurally unsound and likely to fail at any time.

If we have a tree that meets both of these conditions; it is at an increased likelihood of failure due to some defect, and there are one or more potential targets present that could potentially be affected by such a failure, then the tree will be considered to pose some level of risk and that level of risk should be evaluated.

During the risk assessment process, the following questions will be answered: what is the likelihood of the tree, or tree part failing; what is the likelihood of the failure impacting a target; how severe are the potential consequences if the failing tree or tree part does impact the target.

The likelihood of the tree experiencing a failure will depend on the magnitude of the structural defect present combined with the site conditions on which the tree is growing. For example, a tree limb possessing a large amount of internal decay is usually more likely to fail than the same size limb having a minimal amount of decay. The likelihood of failure is also influenced by the site conditions. The same limb is more likely to fail, within a specifically defined timeframe, if the tree is located on an open, windy site, than if that tree is growing in a location where it is protected from strong winds.

Assuming that this limb does fail, what is the likelihood of it impacting a target? If the limb is stretching over the roof of a house, then the likelihood of impact will be nearly 100%. If the limb is over a back country road that only sees a dozen cars pass by in any given day, the chance of the failure impacting the targets, in this case the passing vehicles, will be low. Finally, if this same limb is hanging over a bus stop where people are standing approximately 50% of the time in any 24 hour period, then the chance of the failure impacting the target would be somewhere around 50%.

If the limb fails, and it does impact the target, how severe are the likely consequences? In the case of the limb growing over a house, the damages would likely be limited to the monetary expense required to repair the roof. In the second and third examples, the limb striking a moving vehicle or a group of people, serious injuries are likely to occur and so the consequences may be considered to be significantly more severe.

These variables are all taken into account in developing a description of the total tree risk assessed. This description may take the form of a qualitative rating, such as: low, moderate, high, or extreme. Or it may be expressed on a point scale with higher numbers representing a greater risk than lower figures. Either way, the risk assessment itself does not answer our starting query “Is this a hazard tree?”. As noted in the opening paragraph, a hazard tree is one that poses a level of risk to people or property that exceeds the risk tolerance of the property owner or manager. Therefore, a conversation must take place between the arborist assessing the risk and the tree owner where the arborist explains the level of risk present and the tree owner expresses his or her risk tolerance. It is this conversation that will set the definition of a “hazard tree” for that particular property. A tree with a moderate risk rating may be considered a hazard on one property and a tree with an identical risk rating may not be considered a hazard in another.

Of course the property owner, or other individual responsible for making tree risk management decisions, should take care that their personal definition of a hazard does not stray too far from what might reasonable be considered to be a hazard by someone else. This is especially true when the risk posed by one of their trees extends to targets located beyond their property lines. When a tree failure occurs, “Act of God” or negligence, can be a fine line and that is the stuff that lawsuits are made of.

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Outside Right-of-Way Tree Risk Along Electrical Transmission Lines

Written by Admin and published on https://www.victoryelectric.net/.

Approximately 20% of the unplanned power outages you experience are caused by trees and other vegetation growing too close to power lines.

In high winds, trees and their debris can be blown onto power lines, causing the lines to short-circuit, and can also cause significant damage to our electrical equipment, resulting in power cuts.

Trees, Power Lines & Right-of-Way Safety

Maintaining Public Safety
Victory Electric’s power line right-of-way responsibilities are first, to maintain public safety and the safety of our employees, and second, to keep power flowing reliably across our electric distribution system, delivering electricity to our members.

To deliver this power, Victory Electric owns and maintains more than 3,170 miles of line. To keep these lines humming with electricity, Victory Electric line crews regularly patrol its lines to make sure the equipment is in good shape, conditions on the rights-of-way below are safe, and our crews can safely access the power lines and equipment in all kinds of weather. We identify and repair broken insulators and damaged sections of power line. We repair or replace cross arms and power poles as needed.

Our crews also look for potentially dangerous situations in the rights of way. Swimming pools, buildings, irrigation equipment, wire fences and tall trees can all be dangerous—when too close to power lines.

Fire, Electrical Hazards
Trees growing near power lines can cause a fire, as well as an electrical, hazard to anyone in contact with the tree at ground level. Trees don’t have to physically touch an energized power line to be dangerous. Electricity can arc from the power line to nearby trees given the right conditions, such as a voltage surge on the line from a nearby lightning strike. This electric current can kill anyone caught near the tree and can cause a fire.

This arcing can also cause power outages. Tree-related power outages are more than just an inconvenience. They not only disrupt service to your home or business, they also disrupt power to hospitals, emergency response centers and patients on life-support equipment.

The National Electric Safety Code specifies power lines be kept specific distances from nearby objects—including trees. The code requires greater clearances for higher voltage lines. For the same safety reasons, transmission line rights of way are wider than for local distribution lines

Clearance: How danger is Controlled
Electricity travels on power lines high above the ground. However, like water, electricity seeks the most direct path to the ground through nearby objects. Just like lightning, electric current in a power line may seek to reach the ground by jumping, or arcing, to a tall-growing tree. To avoid this, Victory Electric maintains a safe distance between its power lines and tree limbs. The higher the voltage of the power line, the more clearance required.

Clearances between power lines and other objects, including trees, must allow for line sag. During warm weather or when the line is carrying heavy electrical loads, it heats up and stretches. This makes the line longer and it sags closer to the ground or objects underneath it. Because the amount of sag varies with electrical load, weather and line composition, a safe clearance distance in winter may not provide the same safety on the warmest summer days. Thus, to maintain a safe distance between the line and anything that can conduct electricity, Victory Electric maintains a clear zone on all sides and below its power lines.

Tall growing trees or other tall objects that could fall into a power line must be removed. Heavy winds can blow branches into power lines and additional weight from snow and ice can bend or break branches, bringing them close enough to cause a flashover.

Neighborly Right-of-Way Uses
Victory Electric works with landowners and communities to allow compatible uses within its rights-of-way. Farming, grazing, open space, parks, golf courses, parking lots, bike paths and hiking trails are just some of these compatible uses.

Nevertheless, there are situations when Victory Electric must responsibly cut trees to maintain safety and reliability. We are committed to working with landowners to minimize the impacts when we must remove trees. Our policy is to continue to work with property and landowners to minimize the need to cut trees, while always emphasizing our most important “good neighbor” activity, which is maintaining a safe right of way and providing reliable electricity.

Victory Electric’s Commitment to Property and Landowners
If we must cut trees on your land, we promise to:

• Make a good faith effort to contact you before we routinely cut down trees on your property.
• In the event of an emergency situation requiring our immediate action, we’ll contact you as soon as reasonably possible.
• Make every effort to protect your property from damage.
• Either leave the logs for your use or haul them away, as you request.
• Remove and/or chip all branches and haul the chips off site, unless you want to keep the chips for use as mulch.
• Cut trees in an environmentally responsible way.

What Can You Do to Help?
Property owners should review the rules and regulations to become familiar with its provisions on member responsibilities. You can call Victory Electric if you have questions or need additional information about safe uses of your property under or near our lines.

Even though our crews regularly inspect our power lines, you can help us if you notice anything such as trees or limbs that might interfere with our power lines. You can also help stop potential power line problems before they start. If you’re planning to plant trees on your property, don’t plant them under the power lines. Shrubs, hedges and other plants must also be kept away from power poles and off power line access roads.

Dense stands of trees, shrubs or hedges make it difficult to get to power lines or electrical equipment to repair or maintain them. They may also make the difficult job of maintaining the electrical system even more hazardous to the line crews.

Tree Cutting and Power Line Safety
Always look for nearby power lines before beginning to cut down any tree. Call us before cutting down any tree that might fall into a power line.

Treat all power lines as energized. Never climb or attempt to fell a tree that has a limb caught in a power line. You may not see any visible evidence the tree is electrified or dangerous. Beware of this hidden hazard. Trees that could reach a power line should never be felled by a land owner. If a tree falls into a power line, stop at once! Stay clear and call Victory Electric.

Maintain the required clearances between any equipment and power lines. If equipment comes into contact with a power line, stop at once! Instruct the operator to stay on the equipment until help arrives. Keep others away.

If a fire starts from an electrical contact or a downed power line, contain the fire if possible, but keep all firefighting equipment and people away from the downed line. Do not use water near the downed line. Notify the local fire department and Victory Electric immediately. Stay clear of the line and treat it as energized. IN AN EMERGENCY, CALL 911.

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Types of Tree Service

Written by Admin and published on https://www.treedoctor.net.

Tree care companies come in a wide variety of sizes and skill levels, and choosing the right one for your project can be challenging. Should you go with the established, TCIA-affiliated tree care company? The Certified Arborist with a chipper and a small crew of Certified Tree Workers? The gal with the chainsaw and the pickup truck? All of these are easy to locate and easy to hire, but price isn’t the only thing that differentiates them from one another.

Different Types of Tree Care Professionals

There are many terms in use describing different types of tree care professionals and this can cause considerable confusion for a homeowner or property manager who requires a tree care provider. The information below will hopefully provide some clarity on the topic.

Arborist vs. Forester

Arborists care for individual trees while foresters manage populations of trees. For example, a forester may be responsible for managing a forest or woodlot for the production of timber or other wood products. The forester will make decisions regarding when and how to plant and harvest trees to meet their management objectives. Urban foresters manage the population of public trees in a community to maximize the benefits provided by trees, while minimizing the inherent risk posed by living in close proximity to these trees. A municipal forester would be an urban forester working for a particular town or city managing the public tree resources in that municipality. This would include trees in parks and other public green spaces, as well as street trees and trees growing in other municipal rights-of-way.

Practicing Arborists

An arborist is generally focused on caring for individual trees, often on private property. Arborists can be divided into two broad categories; Practicing Arborists and Consulting Arborists. A practicing arborist aka commercial arborist is the type of tree care provider that many people first think of when they hear the word arborist. A practicing arborist may offer such tree care services as pruning, planting, removal, pesticide application, and fertilization.

It is worth noting that the terms “arborist” and “tree expert” are not always regulated at the State or Municipal level and in New Jersey any person who chooses to work with trees may currently call themselves an “arborist” or “tree expert” and advertise their company as “XYZ Tree Expert Company.” This has led to unqualified individuals performing tree work using unsafe work practices that have resulted in injuries, as well as incorrect pruning and care techniques that have damaged or destroyed many trees in our State. New Jersey recently passed the “Tree Experts and Tree Care Operators Licensing Act” in an effort to address these issues. The Act will transform the current “NJ Certified Tree Expert” designation into a licensed credential in the near future.

ISA Certified Arborists

The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) oversees the “ISA Certified Tree Worker,” “ISA Certified Arborist,” and “ISA Board Certified Master Arborist” credentials. An ISA Certified Tree Worker has demonstrated that he or she possess the skill and knowledge required to safely work on a tree crew performing general tree care tasks.

An ISA Certified Arborist has met certain education and skill requirements, and passed an examination, to demonstrate that he or she possesses a solid working knowledge of all aspects of arboriculture including: Planting, Pruning, Soil Management, Species Identification, Safe Work Practices, Tree Biology, Diagnosis and Treatment, Tree Protection, and Tree Risk Management.

The ISA Board Certified Master Arborist (BCMA) is the highest level of certification offered by the ISA. This credential recognizes individuals who have reached the pinnacle of their profession. In addition to passing an extensive scenario-based examination, candidates must abide by a Code of Ethics. Fewer than two percent of all ISA Certified Arborists currently hold the BCMA certification.

In addition to certification of arborists, the ISA also qualifies arborists in specific areas. For example, an arborist who is ISA Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) has demonstrated knowledge in the standardized and systematic assessment of tree risk.

Consulting Arborists

Consulting arborists differ from practicing arborists in that they are, as their name implies, primarily consultants. Consulting arborists make tree care recommendations to improve the health and safety of trees. Many homeowners and property managers retain a consulting arborist when they require an independent expert opinion regarding tree care issues. Note that a practicing arborist may also make tree care recommendations, often as part of a “free estimate” but since the practicing arborist is often also offering to perform the recommended work, this arrangement has been viewed by some, including myself, as a potential conflict of interest.

In addition to providing general tree care recommendations, consulting arborists may offer tree value appraisals, tree risk assessments, expert witness testimony, and litigation support services for attorneys, insurance companies, homeowners, and property managers.

Consulting arborists may possess any of the ISA or State certifications that practicing arborists possess. In addition, consulting arborists may be registered by or be members of the American Society of Consulting Arborists (ASCA).

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Landscaping Tips for Fire Safety

Written by Admin and published on https://www.homeadvisor.com.

The probability of a home surviving a wildfire greatly increases with two fire-wise home improvements: fire-retardant building materials and, in the yard, the creation of defensible space. Learn how to design an effective and beautiful fire-safe landscape that could save your home

The Ultimate Guide to Fire-Safe Landscaping

On average, more than 100,000 wildfires light up the landscape each year in the western portion of the United States. It’s not uncommon for fire to burn through more than two million acres across states like California, Texas, New Mexico, Colorado, and throughout the West and Southwest.

A wildfire can race through an area at around 14 miles per hour, which means they can do an incredible amount of damage to your property in a small period of time. Taking steps to protect your home from fire means not only planning, but also planting for the future. That’s where fire-safe landscaping comes in.

Fire-safe landscaping focuses on creating a defensible space around your home with fire-resistant plants, trees and shrubs. Choosing the right kinds of plants and spacing them with inflammable materials, like rock walls and brick paths, can greatly reduce your property’s vulnerability to fire. This guide offers you resources for:

• Grasping the basic concept of fire-safe landscaping
• Understanding types of fire-resistant plants
• Ways to fireproof your existing landscape
• Techniques for enhancing a fire-safe landscape

What is fire-safe landscaping?

Installing fire-safe landscaping throughout your property does not mean tearing out all of your existing vegetation. To the contrary, a complete removal could lead to a whole host of other serious problems, such as erosion and landslides. While it is important to create a plan for removing extremely flammable plants, creating a fire-safe landscape ultimately means creating a balance between your current flora, and new plants that will burn more slowly or are less likely to ignite in the first place — often called fire-resistant plants.

If you live in an area where the threat of fire is a very real, or maybe even a very common threat, you’ll want to think strategically about how you plant and maintain the vegetation around your home. Some elements are easy to identify and resolve on your own while others may warrant hiring a landscaping professional. You can make a significant impact in reducing the risk of fire spreading to your own property or your neighbors’ homes with the right mindset about landscaping. Landscaping kept free of dead and dry plant materials, ideal kindling for fire, along with fire-resistant plants creates defensible space. This provides a protective radius around your home that not only guards against wildfires, but also gives firefighters a safe area to work from when defending your home surroundings against a fire.

What are some common fire-resistant plants?

Making your landscape fire-safe means making it harder for fires to find fuel to burn and paths to keep moving along. While a completely fireproof plant is simply a myth, there are many kinds of plants that are less flammable than others. Here is a list of common fire-resistant plants. However, before you start digging, take the time to check out their hardiness zones so that you can make sure you’re planting vegetation that thrives in your climate:

• Cherry: Not all, but many, varieties of cherry trees are resistant to fire (zones 3-9).
• Coneflower: Pollinators love this drought-tolerant plant (zones 3-9).
• Coralbells: Birds will flock to this low-maintenance perennial (zones 3-9).
• Hawthorn: With its soft white blooms, this tree can reach about 30 feet tall.
• Hens and chicks: Xeriscapes look amazing with this easy-to-maintain ground cover (zones 4-8).
• Honeysuckle: A sweet-smelling vine that resists fire and attracts hummingbirds (zones 4-9).
• Lilac: With a height of up to 20 feet tall, this flowering shrub also has a fragrance that delights the spring air (zones 2-9).
• Maple: A popular tree that is common to many yards (zones 3-9).
• Poplar: An ideal shade tree that loves the sun and grows rapidly (zones 3-9).
• River birch: Glossy green leaves that are resistant to both fire and birch borers (zones 4-9).
• Waxflower: Thriving in hot, dry weather, this shrub requires minimal maintenance (zones 10-11).
• Wooly thyme: Use this plant as ground cover and in the kitchen (zones 4-7).

To truly know which plants are right for your area, consult a gardener in your area or a local landscape architect. Landscaping can be done on your own and with a reasonable budget, but if you plant vegetation that isn’t a fit for your zone, you’ll just be wasting time and money. You may find that the cost to hire a landscape designer is well worth it to create a defensible space you know will last.

What are some ways to fireproof my existing landscape?

Fire-safe landscaping happens year-round, not just before, during or after wildfire season. Remember, dried and dead plant matter can fuel a wildfire, so think about cutting and pruning plants in the winter. This way, they can decompose during the wet season, which reduces the amount of dry, dead material available to fuel a fire. But be careful not to overdo it. Clear-cutting the vegetation on your property is an aggressive tactic that can do more long-term damage. Slowly and methodically identify and eliminate the fire-prone plants in your yard, and make a plan for their removal. You’ll want to create steps for replacing species with dry leaves, dense foliage, high oil and resin levels, shaggy bark, and fine, needle-like leaves.

Other ways to fire-safe your current landscape include:

• Prune trees so the lowest branch is no fewer than eight feet from the ground.
• Remove flammable plants that are within 30 feet of your home.
• Keep firewood stacked at a safe distance from plants, buildings and flammable materials.
• Keep grass and weeds short.
• Reduce ladder fuel — bushes or tall grasses next to trees that can propel a fire upward.
• Understand how wind and seasonal weather can impact your property.

The best way to effectively fireproof your landscape is to understand how your vegetation interacts with fire, water and neighboring plants. Be thoughtful with the kinds of foliage you plant and stay on top of necessary maintenance.

What are some techniques for enhancing a fire-safe landscape?

There are many ways to grow a beautiful, even luscious, fire-safe landscape. When it comes to plants, you want to think about spacing. Hardscaping, irrigation and water are ways to create fire-resistant space between plants and around your home. You can protect your property and the surrounding areas from spreading flames with fire-safe techniques like:

• Planting trees at least 10 feet away from each other and at least 30 feet away from your home.
• Grouping plants of similar height and watering needs to slow the spread of fire.
• Using herbicides with caution.
• Choosing a drip irrigation system, both conserving water and promoting healthy plants, which means they’ll burn less quickly.
• Creating breaks in fuel for fires with paved walkways, concrete patios, rocks and walls.
• Installing water features like ponds and fountains.
• Using inorganic mulch to prevent erosion.

Even if wildfires aren’t common in your area, utilizing some of these fire-safe landscaping techniques can be extremely useful to help with water conservation and prevent damage from fires that start by other means, like an electrical fire in your neighbor’s house or embers from a fire pit or grill.

Fire-safe landscaping doesn’t just protect your property, but also the homes — and lives — of your neighbors, local wildlife and native plant life. When you make fire safety a priority in your home, you can help enhance property values, reduce insurance costs and claims, and build a stronger, safer community.

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Pear Trellis Rust

Written by Admin and published on https://willowtreeservice.com/.

Pear trellis rust is caused by the fungus Gymnosporangium sabinae. It was introduced into the United States from Europe in the 1990s and has been progressively spreading through states in both the East and West. The disease affects common pear, callery pear, and several species of juniper/eastern red cedar.

For the disease to complete development, both pear and juniper are needed. In early spring, round and orange gelatinous galls will form on juniper twigs during cool, moist conditions. Spores are produced on these galls, which are then disseminated to pears by wind and rain. Impacted pear trees will display conspicuous yellow to orange leafspots and spindle-shaped lesions on petioles and twigs. By late summer, fruiting structures resembling trellises will have formed on the undersides of diseased leaf tissue and on lesions on petioles and twigs. Spores from these fruiting structures will then further disseminate by wind and rain to juniper where infection occurs on twigs and shoots of these trees.

Pear Trellis Rust: A Damaging Pathogen To A Common Tree

The white flowers of ornamental pear trees are one of the unmistakable signs of spring. Ornamental pear trees are often found in our area due in large part to their spring flowers and fall color. However, in the last few years, many pear trees have been damaged by a fungal pathogen called pear trellis rust. Thankfully, Willow Tree Service offers treatments that help to control this damaging fungus.

Orange Spots on Leaves and Loss of Leaves are the Two Most Obvious Symptoms of Pear Trellis Rust

Our clients usually first notice a problem when their pear trees start dropping leaves in the middle of the year. Upon closer inspection, they notice red, orange, and yellow spots on the leaves. The pathogen can also cause fruit and twigs to be damaged and fall. Sometimes the amount of defoliation can be quite significant. The tree can usually recover from this first attack, but frequent attacks can weaken the tree over time.

Treatments and Cultural Practices Can Help Control and Minimize Pear Trellis Rust Damage

Fungicide sprays and systemic trunk injections are the two main ways Willow Tree Service treats for this fungal disease. A series of sprays in spring as leaves emerge help control the disease, while a systemic injection in early fall can help provide additional support for the following spring.

In addition to treatments, there are a couple of other things homeowners can do to help minimize the damage.

1. Remove all infected leaves, fruit, and twigs from the property. The spores for the disease are found in this debris, so removing them helps prevent additional infection.
2. Remove or do not plant juniper trees and bushes. Pear trellis rust needs junipers as a second host to complete its life cycle. Unfortunately, junipers are very common throughout the landscape and the spores can travel from neighboring properties, but we have had clients who were able to control the disease by removing the alternate juniper host.

Call Willow Tree Service for you FREE Evaluation

One of our ISA certified arborists would be happy to walk your property and examine the health of your pear trees, as well as the rest of the trees and shrubs on your property. If you are unsure of whether you have this fungal problem, the best time to have us check your trees is after they have leafed out to see if we can see any sign of the telltale rust circles on the leaves.

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What is Soil Compaction?

Written by Home Guides Staff and published on https://www.vaderstad.com/.

Soil compaction is a major cause of tree decline in urban areas. Compaction occurs when a force, such as feet, vehicles, and even water from some sprinkler systems, creates pressure on the soil surface and compresses the soil particles. This force causes the soil aggregates to break into smaller particles, reducing the amount of pore space in the soil and increasing the bulk density. The reduced pore space hinders aeration, water infiltration, and root penetration. A lack of soil oxygen and poor water drainage retard root growth, jeopardizing the health of the tree.

Soil compaction

Soil compaction results in compression of pores that would otherwise transport water and air. This impedes root growth and can cause oxygen deficiency. Soil compaction can lead to a severe decrease in yield. 

Soil compaction by definition means that the density of the soil increases when it is compressed. In other words, the soil becomes denser and every litre of soil weighs more when the pores are compressed. It is often easy to understand and gauge the effects of soil compaction from watching a tractor tyre roll over loose soil in wet conditions. 

Roots impeded

Soil compaction results in root growth being restricted and affects mechanical resistance to root development in two ways:

1. Compaction decreases the number and size of large pores, macropores. As a result, there are fewer pores with diameter larger than roots in which the roots can grow freely, without mechanical resistance
2. Compaction increases the mechanical resistance of the soil through pressing soil particles more closely together

Water transport restricted

Soil compaction also restricts the movement of water down through the soil. This causes water saturation in the upper layers, which in turn can lead to oxygen deficiency for the roots according to image above. In addition, soil aeration status affects the availability of various plant nutrients, e.g. nitrogen and manganese. Under anaerobic conditions, denitrification can lead to severe loss of nitrogen in the form of nitrogen oxide or nitrogen gas to the atmosphere. Soil compaction can thereby decrease nitrogen availability in the soil.

Essential air: Guideline values for soil air-filled porosity: >25% air means good aeration, 10-25% air can result in limitations in certain conditions, and <10% air is characteristic of oxygen deficiency.

Possible remedial measures

To avoid soil compaction, it is important to employ remedial measures that can contribute to better soil structure in the long term. Such measures include drainage, structure liming, keeping the soil covered with vegetation and supplying external organic material. These measures, which result in the soil being drier, decrease soil compaction at depth.

Cropping system and soil tillage are also critical for soil compaction. The most important consideration is to avoid tillage when the soil is too wet. A dry soil has greater bearing capacity for loads, while a wet soil is compressed under a similar pressure. Having a large contact area with the help of broad tyres or dual wheels results in a lower wheel load. Number of passes as shown by the results in image below is also important, as is keeping the total weight of field equipment as low as possible.

A trial (L2-7118) at Önnestad, Skåne, in 2000 examined how soil compaction before spring sowing affected the yield of different crops (barley, wheat, oats, sugar beet and peas). The compaction consisted of different numbers of passes with a heavy load over the field before sowing:

1. Sowing without compaction
2. One pass + sowing
3. One pass with a slurry tanker + sowing
4. Three passes with a slurry tanker + sowing

The results showed that yield of spring wheat, barley and oats was positively affected by some compaction, i.e. one pass + sowing. For sugar beet and peas, however, yield was decreased even by this treatment. When the number of passes and thus the amount of soil compaction was increased, yield of all crops decreased. The crop most negatively affected was peas, which are very sensitive to oxygen deficiency. 

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What Causes Girdling Roots?

Written by John Lang and published on https://arbordayblog.org/.

A tree is girdled when something is tightly wrapped around the trunk or stem. A stem girdling root circles or partially circles the base of a tree at or just below the soil surface.

Stem girdling roots choke off the flow of water and nutrients between the roots and branches and food produced in the leaves from reaching the roots. They can also compress and weaken the trunk of a tree at or above the root collar flare (the junction between the trunk and the main roots) causing it to lean and lose its stability. Girdling roots may girdle other roots, but there is no known harm in this. Trees having stem girdling roots suffer a slow decline in health and a premature death.

Girdling Roots And What To Do About Them

Imagine wearing a belt around your waist that is being squeezed tighter and tighter, and you’ll get an idea of what girdling roots do to a tree.

Girdling roots are more common than many people realize, yet they can be deadly. When lateral roots at (or sometimes, just below) the surface of the soil encircle or cut into the main trunk of a tree, the flow of water and nutrients becomes restricted. The longer a tree has to deal with girdling roots, the weaker and more unstable it becomes.

What Causes Girdling Roots?

Typically, girdling roots don’t just “happen.” Trees in urban environments are exposed to certain factors trees in nature don’t have to contend with, which can cause numerous issues, including girdling roots.

The most common cause is improper planting/transplanting. When trees remain in their nursery containers for too long, the roots can circle the bottom of the pot, having nowhere else to go. When these roots are not loosened during the planting process, they can become girdling roots.

Similarly, when a tree is planted in a hole that is too small, the same process occurs: the tree’s roots begin circling one another and in time develop into girdling roots.

Leaving pieces of the planting container or other debris in the planting hole can also lead to girdling roots down the road. Other causes include heavily compacted soil and close proximity to foundations, curbs and other obstructions, all of which can hinder normal root growth.

How to Spot Girdling Roots

Luckily, girdling roots are relatively easy to spot – if you know what to look for.

The number one indicator of girdling roots is an abnormal trunk flare. Typically, a tree trunk flares out where it meets the ground. In a tree with girdling roots, the trunk may instead appear straight or even narrower.

You may also observe roots circling the tree above the soil line, although typically girdling roots lie just below the surface. Other, less obvious signs include early leaf drop, small leaves and canopy dieback.

Treating and Preventing Girdling Roots

The best way to prevent girdling roots – as well as many other problems – is to dig the correct size planting hole. A common misconception is “the deeper the better,” however, the planting hole should be two to three times as wide as the root ball and no deeper than the root ball. There should not be soil above the root flare or mulch up against the trunk.

If there are roots encircling the base of the root ball, break these up before planting to allow for normal root development. Water a newly planted tree consistently and inspect the root flare for defects periodically.

Girdling roots can be removed, but you may need to consult with a certified arborist to avoid damaging the main stem. In severe cases, girdling roots can compromise the tree’s stability and the tree may need to be removed.

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Mature Tree Pruning

Written by Admin and published on https://www.elitetreecare.com/.

This pruning type is referred to as cleaning. For new plantings, see our page on the structural pruning of young trees.

Thinning and raising are two types of mature tree pruning that should be performed periodically to improve the form and shape of the plant, to eliminate interference with objects and structures, and to compensate for structural weaknesses. Research shows that thinning, the removal of live branches to reduce density, significantly reduces wind resistance and subsequent storm damage. Pruning of lower branches, know as raising, also can be used to increase the amount of light for turf grass and ground covers beneath the crown of a tree. Bartlett arborists are trained to evaluate the condition of your trees and determine the type(s) of pruning required to balance your goals and those of managing plant health and safety.

Tips for Pruning Mature Trees

Tree pruning is important at any stage of a tree’s life. Pruning mature trees takes extra care since, like mature adults, older trees take longer to recover from injury, illness, and adjustments. Follow these tips for properly pruning mature trees to help ensure they live their best life.

What is a Mature Tree

Different types of trees have different levels of maturity. Trees that have reached a certain age or size is considered mature depending on what species it is. If a tree can grow to be 70 feet tall, and your tree is 50 or 60 feet, it can be considered mature. If it’s supposed to live about 100 years, and you’ve determined it’s 70 or 80 years old, it’s mature.

Pruning Mature Trees

Just like any tree, improper pruning can lead to injury. Take extra care with a mature tree, since it won’t be able to recover as fast as its younger counterparts. While young trees use the energy it gains from its leaves through photosynthesis for growth, reproduction, and resisting disease, mature trees use most of its energy for simply maintaining its strength. This means it doesn’t have enough defense against decay. Removing too many leaves during any pruning process takes away that energy, forcing a mature tree to try and replenish what is lost. This could add too much stress to the tree, not to mention open wounds susceptible to decay.

Only prune mature trees if:

• Branches are decaying, dying, or dead.
• Lower branches are obstructing walkways, driveways, or visibility.
• Higher breaches are growing into buildings or wires.
• There’s storm damage.
• The tree is growing too large and becoming a hazard to people or property.

Proper Pruning Techniques

As with any tree, there are proper pruning techniques to follow. There are different types of cuts you can,are when pruning a tree:

• Thinning cut. Removes a branch to the trunk, or shortens the branch back to a side branch large enough to assume growth—typically one-third the diameter of the pruned branch.
• Drop-crotch cut. A thinning cut for branches more than 15 inches in diameter, used mostly for reducing a tree’s size.
• Heading cut. Only if removing the entire tree; cut the branch back to a bud or a very small branch.

There’s a right and wrong way to cut a branch and a right and wrong time of year for pruning. Knowing which is which is crucial to the process and future health of your tree. Keep your cuts small and try to only prune when a tree is dormant—usually in the winter. The best way to prune a mature tree is to call in a qualified arborist. Since extra care is required for this job to be done correctly, a professional who understands the needs of the tree and the proper process will make the project safer and easier.

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Benefits of A Tree Lopping Service

Written by Article Factory and published on https://articles-factory.com/.

Owners of residential properties may have good reasons for resorting to tree lopping. These are generally for outdoor decoration, safety, and health issues. Although trees can make your home look more attractive, there are instances when you need to trim branches or remove the tree completely.

Lopping service providers will remove unhealthy, shattered or dead boughs that have grown in young and old trees. It prevents micro-organisms that can infect other healthy parts of these large perennial plants. At the same time, the amputation of live limbs facilitates exposure to natural light and free flow of air within the top. Pruning is also meant to enhance the beauty of your topography.

Why Tree Lopping Is So Important?

Tree lopping is crucial to ensure that trees at your home and property remain in excellent condition. There are numerous benefits of tree trimming, tree pruning, and tree lopping. Apart from the aesthetic benefits, tree maintenance also helps to keep the trees’ health in good condition.

People who own private properties in the North Shore may have authentic reasons for choosing a tree lopping service. These are by and large used for open-air decorations, safety & security, and health-related issues. In spite of the fact that trees can make your home look more appealing, there are some circumstances when you have to trim branches or expel the tree totally.

Lopping specialists and arborists will evacuate undesirable, smashed or dead branches that have developed in young and old trees as well. It stops the growth of microorganisms that can infect other strong parts of these huge long-lasting plants. In the meantime, the removal of live branches encourages exposure to natural light and a free stream of air inside the top. Trimming and pruning are additionally intended to improve the excellence of your private property.

• There are basically two choices for tree lopping. First, is to trim the branches on your own, if you have any sort of knowledge in this field.
• The second option is to hire a professional and expert tree lopper. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. It is fundamental to assess every option deliberately before settling on one of these two options.
• It truly does not make a difference for whatever length of time that the tree is pruned appropriately. High standard pruning systems likewise guarantee the security of passers-by, neighbors, pets, vehicles, and any other type of physical structure.

Well-built branch structures can be obtained by trimming young and medium-sized trees on trees. Many property owners protect trees essentially for natural purposes.

• It is additionally important to cut trees for landscaping, beautification, and to increase the value of your home.
• The development of trees is improved on the grounds that unfit branches are expelled.
• Suitable pruning is vital in making the trees’ foundations stronger and shapes more alluring.

Mostly, trees should not be allowed to grow too high if they are located in a residential area. Full developed trees are trimmed and pruned for aesthetic reasons and to limit the growth. Twigs in the lower area are chopped down to encourage mechanical collecting strategies.

• While trees are known to give shade, particularly amid hot summer, low undergrowth ought to be pruned for safety & security reasons.
• Branches shouldn’t hinder electric cables it can pose a big threat to people living around that area.
• Falling leaves and twigs can likewise do harm the roof and gutters of your home.

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How Important To Hire A Professional Tree Trimmer?

Written by Angie’s List and published on https://www.angieslist.com/.

Who doesn’t want to save money on tree trimming? You may have thought of doing your own tree trimming to do so. However, is it worth the danger? You might be tempted to trim your tree on your own, but weigh the pros and cons first before having a final decision. You may be able to save on tree costs but pay higher on hospital bills.

What You Need to Know Before Hiring a Tree Service

When you need to hire a professional tree service, check credentials, insurance, and training before they start.

When heavy branches hang over your house, you risk the possibility of a falling limb causing extensive damage. And a tree is slowly claiming territory on part of your home, you risk mold growth on your siding.

Damaged or dead trees are unsightly and potentially hazardous during a storm.

For these and many other reasons, you need to know how to find the best tree service. Remember, always leave this type of work to the professional arborists or tree experts if you’re not highly skilled in the field.

• Look for credentials and licensure. A company can do a lot of damage if its employees aren’t properly trained, so check into the company’s credentials. Find out if the company is licensed.

An unlicensed company presents an enter-at-your-own-risk gamble that you don’t want to place a wager on. Operating a tree-removal service without a license is illegal.

• Check into the company’s insurance. A company without adequate insurance coverage is an establishment that you don’t want to work anywhere near your home. You want to ensure that the company has liability insurance and worker’s compensation insurance.

Liability insurance guarantees that if the company causes damage to your home or possessions, it covers the expenses.

Worker’s compensation insurance protects both you and the company’s employees by covering any injury that an employee sustains while working on your property. Additionally, it protects you from a lawsuit if anything should happen while the company is cutting trees.

• Ask for referrals. This is just good common sense. Don’t hesitate to ask the company for referrals from customers who had similar work done. You’re entitled to know what to expect and how other people felt about the services provided.

Remember, the company is going to be doing work that, if done improperly, could potentially cause a heavy limb to fall on your house. For the best referrals, don’t forget to check Angie’s List for member reviews and ratings.

• Get an estimate. Always get an estimate on the job and be sure that it’s in print. If a tree service is even slightly hesitant about this, it may mean that the company is out to make a quick buck at your expense and may charge you additional fees for services that you didn’t want.

• Look into what the company charges. Evaluate how the company is going to charge you for the services performed. For instance, is the company going to charge an added fee for stump grinding, or is there one flat fee for the entire project?

• Inquire about the equipment used. You want to make sure that the company has all the necessary equipment for the job. Communicate exactly what you need to be done to the best of your ability. The company may not even take on your particular job if it needs a special type of equipment that it doesn’t have.

• Compare the services offered. Although stump grinding may be extra, some companies don’t provide this service at all if it doesn’t have the necessary equipment. Additionally, if the company doesn’t have access to a crane, it may not be able to do work above a certain height. This is especially important if tall trees populate your property.

• Employee training. Ask about the employees’ backgrounds. You want a company that hires workers with many years of experience performing this type of service. Inquire if there is an arborist on staff.

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How Can Acid Rain Affect Plants And Trees

Written by Samantha Jakuboski and published on https://www.nature.com/.

An ecosystem is a community of plants, animals and other organisms along with their environment including the air, water and soil. Everything in an ecosystem is connected. If something harms one part of an ecosystem – one species of plant or animal, the soil or the water – it can have an impact on everything else.

Toxic Rain: The Effect of Acid Rain on the Environment

Two vacation places that I frequently visit all throughout the year are Southampton, Long Island, and the Adirondacks, New York. These places have become great destinations for me when I want to forget about my worries and relax. Whether I am skiing down Whiteface Mountain or boogie boarding the huge waves at Copper Beach, the placid atmosphere of these two places engulfs me and it is my way of relieving the stress that has accumulated during the past week or so. Even though these two places are far from major cities, I have recently become aware that parts of Long Island and the Adirondacks have been experiencing acid deposition for a couple of decades. This worries me, because if we humans do not do something about this quick, these places might become so polluted that we may never have the chance again to go back to the clean environments that we once enjoyed and treasured. I have known these two places since I was a few months old, and the thought that in future years they might not be the same for my grandchildren and their family is really upsetting.

So, what is acid deposition?

Acid deposition, also called acid rain, is rain or gases that have been polluted by high amounts of chemicals and acids in the atmosphere. It can result from decaying plants and animals or natural cataclysms, such as volcanoes, but the major cause of acid rain is the releasing of chemicals by humans. The main gases that lead to acid rain are sulfur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide. When they come into contact with water and oxygen they turn into acids. Acid Deposition can be in the form of precipitation, which is called wet deposition, or it could be in the form of gases and microscopic particles floating the air, which is called dry deposition.

Scientists can measure how much acid is in rain or a body of water by using the pH scale. There are 14 numbers on it, ranging from 0 through 14. If a lake has a low pH, that tells us that there is a high amount of acid in the lake. If a lake has a pH 8 or above, it is alkaline, which means there is not a lot of acid in it. When a body of water has a pH of 7, it is neutral, since it is in the middle. New York State’s rain pH level is between 4 and 4.5. That is 30 times more acidic than the normal level!

Remember: All bodies of water have acid in it, but the problem with acid rain is that too much acid is accumulating, and the effects are harmful.

Where does Sulfur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide come from?

One of the central sources of sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxide come from power plants. When power plants generate electricity, they are burning the fossil fuel, coal. Coal is sometimes dubbed as the dirty fuel source because when it is burned, it lets out sulfur, nitrogen, and other gases. The more coal we use, the more sulfur and nitrogen we are admitting into our atmosphere. Fumes and emissions from cars and other vehicles are also another source of sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxide.

Harmful effects of acid deposition

Acid deposition is very dangerous for trees and forests because it rids the soil of very important nutrients trees need to survive, like magnesium and calcium. Without these vital nutrients, the trees are more vulnerable to infections and damage by cold weather and insects. Acid rain also allows aluminum to seep into the soil, and with too much aluminum in the soil, the trees have a very hard time collecting water. Acid rain is even thought to destroy leafs’ outer-coat and when it finally wears down, the acid can make its way into the tree, which prevents photosynthesis from taking place. Photosynthesis makes food and energy for the plant, and without it, the plant or tree dies.

Not only are plants affected by acid deposition, but humans are too. If we breathe in the infinitesimal acid particles, we are prone to getting lung and respiratory problems and diseases such as asthma, chronic bronchitis (long-term), and pneumonia. Just in the United States and Canada alone, there were 1520 visits to the emergency room because of dry deposition. Yet, if you swim in a body of water with a high acidity level, nothing will happen to your body.

Acid Rain proposes a very harmful affect on the ecosystems as well. The acidity in the water can cause many fish and sea life to die, and that can throw off the whole food-chain. A test was done and the results, which were published in 1990, showed that most of the lakes in the Adirondack area had low pH levels and that the lakes with these low levels had no fish.

What is the United States doing to help the issues of acid disposition?

In 1985, the Clean Coal Technology Program was established to help make the burning of coal “cleaner.” Four billion dollars have been donated by the coal industry and two billion dollars by the federal government to help with this goal. There are many ways coal can become cleaner, such as crushing it and washing it before using it, because by doing so some of the sulfur is being removed. Companies also install flue gas desulfurization systems, otherwise known as a scrubber, which have the potential to remove about 90% of the sulfur dioxide before its gets emptied out into the atmosphere. This system works by spraying a limestone and water mixture on the pipe where the smoke from the coal is released. When the lime meets the smoke, with the sulfur in it, the smoke is absorbed into it and becomes a gooey liquid or powder and the most of the sulfur is trapped. You can then recycle the liquid or powder to make objects such as concrete blocks. These are just some of the ways coal can cause less pollution, and there are many more ways.

In 1990, Congress passed the Clean Air Act. This act stated that the EPA, Environmental Protection Agency, should do their part and help protect the air we breathe, so the Acid Rain Program was initiated. This program strives hard to achieve both environmental and health satisfaction by limiting the amount of sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxide admitted into the air by power plants.

If we reduce air pollution, acid rain might become a thing of the past! Think of a place that you really love to go and picture it polluted in future years. Not a nice thought, right? This is why we have to try our best to protect the air that we live and breathe every day!

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How Long Do Trees Live?

Written by Anne Baley and published on https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/.

The beautiful thing about fruit plants? Unlike most vegetables, you don’t have to replant each year. However, the lifespan of a fruit tree or bush varies dramatically across varieties. Some olive trees produce copious crops after thousands of years, for example, while strawberries produce for just a few seasons.

Wondering what to expect from a fruit tree, shrub, vine, or perennial that you’re planting this season? Here’s a list of the typical lifespan of 20 common fruits below. And because plants, just like people, live longest when they are healthy, we’ve included a few tips on how to enhance the longevity of each.

What Is The Lifespan Of A Tree: How The Age Of A Tree Is Determined

Trees are among the oldest living things on earth, with some extraordinary examples lasting thousands of years. While the elm tree in your backyard won’t live that long, it’s likely to outlive you, and possibly your children. So when planting trees on your property, keep the far future in mind. Gardens, flower beds and playgrounds may come and go, but a tree will live on for generations. Keep reading for information on the average age of trees.

What is the Lifespan of a Tree?

So exactly how long do trees live? Much like animals, the average age of trees depends on its species. If a tree has enough water, food and sunshine throughout its life, then it can live to the end of its natural lifespan. That said, no amount of care can make an elm live as long as a sequoia.

Some of the shorter-lived trees are include palms, which can live around 50 years. The persimmon has an average lifespan of 60 years, and the black willow will probably survive for around 75 years.

On the other hand, Alaska red cedar can live up to 3,500 years. Giant sequoias can last over 3,000 years and at least one Bristlecone pine is estimated to be almost 5,000 years old.

How the Age of a Tree is Determined

Trees that live in temperate climates with distinct seasons grow rings inside their trunks. If you were to drill a core from the outer bark to the center of the tree, you could conceivably count the rings to determine the age of the tree. If a tree is chopped down or falls from a storm, the rings can be easily seen and counted.

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Why Trees Are Important To The Environment

Written by Admin and published on https://sapgroup.com/.

Trees help clean the air we breathe, filter the water we drink, and provide habitat to over 80% of the world’s terrestrial biodiversity. Forests provide jobs to over 1.6 billion people, absorb harmful carbon from the atmosphere, and are key ingredients in 25% of all medicines. Have you ever taken an Aspirin? It comes from the bark of a tree!

Why Trees are Important

Trees are important, valuable and necessary to our very existence. Our existing forest and the trees we plant, work in tandem to make a better world.

Here’s our 10 reasons why trees are valuable and important…

1. Trees Produce Oxygen

Let’s face it, we could not exist as we do if there were no trees. A mature leafy tree produces as much oxygen in a season as 10 people inhale in a year. What many people don’t realise is the forest also acts as a giant filter that cleans the air we breathe.

2. Trees Clean the Soil

The term phytoremediation is a fancy word for the absorption of dangerous chemicals and other pollutants that have entered the soil. Trees can either store harmful pollutants or actually change the pollutant into less harmful forms. Trees filter sewage and farm chemicals, reduce the effects of animal wastes, clean roadside spills and clean water runoff into streams.

3. Trees Control Noise Pollution

Trees muffle urban noise almost as effectively as stone walls. Trees, planted at strategic points in a neighbourhood or around your house, can abate major noises from freeways and airports.

4. Trees Slow Storm Water Runoff

Flash flooding can be dramatically reduced by a forest or by planting trees. One Colorado blue spruce, either planted or growing wild, can intercept more than 1000 gallons of water annually when fully grown. Underground water-holding aquifers are recharged with this slowing down of water runoff.

5. Trees Are Carbon Sinks

To produce its food, a tree absorbs and locks away carbon dioxide in the wood, roots and leaves. Carbon dioxide is a contributor to global warming. A forest is a carbon storage area or a “sink” that can lock up as much carbon as it produces. This locking-up process “stores” carbon as wood and not as an available “greenhouse” gas.

6. Trees Clean the Air

Trees help cleanse the air by intercepting airborne particles, reducing heat, and absorbing such pollutants as carbon monoxide, sulphur dioxide, and nitrogen dioxide. Trees remove this air pollution by lowering air temperature, through respiration, and by retaining particulates.

7. Trees Shade and Cool

Shade resulting in cooling is what a tree is best known for. Shade from trees reduces the need for air conditioning in summer. In winter, trees break the force of winter winds, lowering heating costs. Studies have shown that parts of cities without cooling shade from trees can literally be “heat islands” with temperatures as much as 12 degrees Fahrenheit higher than surrounding areas.

8. Trees Act as Windbreaks

During windy and cold seasons, trees located on the windward side act as windbreaks. A windbreak can lower home heating bills up to 30% and have a significant effect on reducing snow drifts. A reduction in wind can also reduce the drying effect on soil and vegetation behind the windbreak and help keep precious topsoil in place.

9. Trees Fight Soil Erosion

Erosion control has always started with tree and grass planting projects. Tree roots bind the soil and their leaves break the force of wind and rain on soil. Trees fight soil erosion, conserve rainwater and reduce water runoff and sediment deposit after storms.

10. Trees Increase Property Values

Real estate values increase when trees beautify a property or neighbourhood. Trees can increase the property value of your home by 15% or more.

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How To Graft Fruit Trees

Written by Jackie Rhoades and published on https://garden.lovetoknow.com/.

Long ago I witnessed magic. There were no cauldrons or potions, yet it was magic to my young, farmboy mind. It was magic in the form of fruit tree grafting, and though decades have passed it is still just as magical to me.

An old veteran owned a large apple orchard two farms over and I often walked through it as a shortcut to the county road. One sharp April day when I was passing by, Harold Bualmer was on a ladder cutting limbs. Noticing me, he waved me over. He always had apples in his pockets and offered me what he called a “winter apple,” which to me looked like, well, an apple. He said he was pruning back the limbs and ground suckers to keep everyone behaving themselves and would use the fresh cuttings for grafts.

Grafting Fruit Trees Step by Step

If you plant a peach or other fruit tree seed, the tree that comes up will not produce the same type of fruit that the seed was from. The only way to produce a fruit tree that will produce the same fruit as the original tree is through grafting. Grafting refers to any of several methods of attaching a section of a stem with leaf buds into the stock of an existing tree.

Before You Begin

Trees for Grafting

Young, vigorous fruit trees less than five years old are the best for grafting. You want a rootstock, or the tree the graft is going into, to be vigorous and as disease resistant as possible. The quality of its fruit is not important; it is the quality of the tree that is the important part. The trees should be tall enough that the tree will have 1 to 2 feet between the trunk and the graft.

Best Scions for Grafting

Scions are the pieces of wood with three or four buds on them that will be grafted onto the rootstock. The best time to harvest scions is in the winter. Harvest pieces that are 1/4 to 3/8 inches in diameter and that have three or four buds on them. Store them in your refrigerator with the cut ends wrapped in a damp paper towel and the entire scion in a plastic bag. These will store three to four months and still be good for grafting. Do not store in the freezer.

Be sure to label which type of tree each scion is from. The scion and rootstock need to be the same type of fruit tree. You cannot graft a pear scion on an apple tree, for example.

When to Graft

It is best to graft in the spring, when the buds of the rootstock are just starting to open. You can graft until blossom time, however.

Covering Grafts

All grafts should be covered as soon as they are made. Electrician’s tape may be used to bind the two pieces together. The good brands will stick to themselves and last through the first summer, when they are no longer needed.

Asphalt water emulsion compound is widely used as a protective coating on graphing unions. It is of a pasty consistency, and should be put on with a small paddle or tongue depressor so you can apply it thickly.

Tools Needed for Grafting

You will need the following tools to graft your trees:

• Budding knife
• Grafting knife
• Fine tooth saw
• Pruning shears
• Dormant scions
• Grafting tape or electrician’s tape
• Asphalt water emulsion compound for covering grafts
• Light hammer
• Cleft grafting chisel and mallet

Methods of Grafting

There are four general methods of grafting fruit trees. These methods are used with different species of trees and in different situations. Trees up to five years old can be grafted all at one time. Older trees need to be grafted one branch at a time with a year or so between grafts. Make sure that when you graft the scion to the rootstock, that the scion is right side up. You can tell because the buds point up.

Budding

Budding uses a single bud as the scion rather than a stick. It is the grafting method of choice for cherry, plum, apricot, and peach trees, and can be used for apple and pear trees.

Budding is done later than other types of grafting, in the summer. This is when the bark slips easily and there are well grown buds to use in the grafting. It is the easiest method of grafting for beginners.

1. Cut bud sticks from strong shoots of the present season’s growth with mature buds that are slightly brownish in color.

2. Clip off the leaves from the bud sticks, leaving 1/2 inch of the leafstalk for a handle.

3. Discard the soft tips of the bud sticks.

4. Choose branches from the rootstock that are the size of a lead pencil up to 1/2 inch diameter. Larger branches have too thick a bark for this method to work.

5. On the rootstock, about 15 or more inches from the trunk, make a T cut across the bark.

6. With a knife blade, lift the corners and carefully loosen the bark.

7. Cut a bud from the bud stick which includes a thin piece of attached wood.

8. Slide the bud under the flaps of the bark on the rootstock until the ends are firmly under the bark.

9. Using electrician’s tape, tie the bud to the rootstock.

10. Wrap the ends tightly, but be sure not to cover the bud with tape.

11. In two to three weeks, cut the tie so you will not girdle the graft.

12. The next year, cut the rootstock off above the graft when the bud starts growing.

13. Remove any shoots below the graft.

14. The second year, remove all growth from the tree except the bud grafted shoots.

The Whip Graft

The whip graft is usually used on small apple and pear trees. The diameter of both the rootstock and the scion should be about the same size, not more than 1/2 inch in diameter.

1. Cut a branch off the rootstock, leaving a stub of at least 1 foot.

2. Cut a straight, vertical 1-1/2 inch cut on the bottom end of the scion and the top end of the rootstock.

3. Then carefully cut a slit down the middle of the scion cut, leaving a tongue about 1 inch long attached to the scion.

4. Do the same to the rootstock.

5. Fit the scion and rootstock together interlocking the tongues so that the cambium, or inner bark, of both is in contact.

6. Cover the graft with electrical tape to hold the two pieces together. Do not stretch the tape too much or it will be too tight.

7. Cover the electrical tape completely with asphalt water emulsion compound.

8. Remove the asphalt and tape as soon as the scion has begun to grow to prevent girdling of the graft.

This type of graft is difficult for the beginner to do well.

The Cleft Graft

The cleft graft is used when grafting onto an older apple or pear tree. The tree trunk or branch being grafted to should be about 1 to 2 inches in diameter. The graft should be made within a foot of the trunk or main branch and preferably not more than 4 to 6 feet off the ground. Otherwise the top will be too tall to easily pick.

1. Cut off the branch or trunk of the rootstock where the graft will go.

2. Cut the cleft in the middle of the top of the rootstock with a cleft chisel. You can also use a large knife or hatchet. Do not split the branch or trunk. Cut it deep enough to fit the end of the scion in it, about 1-1/2 inches.

3. Cut the bottom of the scion to a wedge shape. Making a sharp point will tend to break off when inserted.

4. Insert two scions in the wedge of the rootstock, one on each edge of the trunk or branch. You will need to open the cleft with a grafting tool or screwdriver to insert the scions.

5. Make sure the cambium of the rootstock is in contact with the cambium of the scion. You will need to tilt the scion slightly to make good contact.

6. Wrap the cleft graft with electrical tape.

Cleft grafting step 6

7. Cover the graft and the length of the cleft with asphalt grafting compound.

Cleft grafting step 7

8. When the scions start growing, tie to a support stake to prevent breakage.

9. Tie all the branches coming from the scion together with a piece of string to stabilize them.

10. The first year, let all scions and the branches below them grow.

11. The second year, chose one scion as the main branch and cut the rest to three buds. Remove all branches below the graft.

12. The third year, cut the spare scions back to three buds again. Continue to remove any branches below the graft.

13. The fourth year, cut the spare scions off. Continue to remove any branches below the graft.

The Side Graft

The side graft is generally used for trees that are too big for the whip graft but not big enough for the cleft graft. The scion is inserted in the side of the rootstock, then the rootstock above the graft is cut off when the scion starts growing.

1. Find a smooth place on the underside of a branch at least a foot from the trunk. Make a slanting cut almost to the core of the branch.

2. Cut the scion to a short, sharp wedge with one side longer than the other.

3. Bend the branch a little to open the cut and insert the scion. Make sure the cambium of both branch and scion meet.

4. Cover the graft with asphalt grafting compound.

5. Wait two weeks, then cut the rootstock above the graft off.

6. Cover the cut with grafting compound.

7. After the first season, cut all growth off below the graft.

8. Fire blight is a disease that attacks fruit trees. If the scion is attacked by fire blight, cut it back six inches below the fire blight symptoms.

Reasons for Graft Failure

There are several reasons for graft failure. These are the most common:

• The stock and the scion were not compatible.
• The cambiums did not meet properly.
• The scion was upside down.
• Grafting was done at the wrong time of the year.
• Either the scion or the rootstock was not healthy.
• The scions were dried out or injured by cold.
• The scions were not dormant when grafted.
• The graft was not properly covered.
• The scion was displaced by some means.
• The graft was too shaded by other growth to grow.
• The graft was attacked by insects or disease.
• The graft union was girdled because the tape was left on too long.

Graft Failure Repercussions

If some of the grafts fail, do not worry. One hundred percent success is almost unheard of. Usually, you graft more scions than are needed for the tree to succeed. Let the shoots where the graft failed grow and bud them that summer, or let them grow a year and try another graft. Just do not let them grow so much they shade other scions.

Rewards of Grafting

Grafting fruit trees allows you to put exactly the scion on the rootstock that you want. This means you will get exactly the kind of fruit you want from that fruit tree. While grafting is a bit of trouble, you should get years of enjoyment from the resulting tree.

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